“The first thing I do every morning is go online to check the surf. If the waves are good, I'll go surf. The beach is 10 minutes away.”
“I don't give a shit what people think about how I
surf. I have fun doing it, that's all that matters.”
“You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.”
“Flocks of seagulls, mist of the ocean, nice waves, beautiful sunset, it's all about getting back on your board and doing it again and again.”
“The mist.. the salt.. the rush.. the sound.. ripping through the waves gets me aroused.”
“Cuttin' my fins through the water, like a knife through butter, it's what I do best.”
“The sting, the bubbles, the mist, the crash, the gracefulness, its all a part of paddling back out and doing it over again.”
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